Spiritual Heritage of Khao Yai

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Nestled across four provinces—Nakhon Ratchasima, Nakhon Nayok, Saraburi, and Prachinburi—the vast forest of Khao Yai is a sanctuary of rare wildlife and lush vegetation. In the past, before modern roads and survival gear made wilderness travel more manageable, this dense jungle posed a daunting challenge to those who dared cross it. Illness was a constant threat, and while some ailments were minor, many lives were lost to the forest’s unforgiving nature. Locals began to believe that it wasn't just the visible dangers of the wild, but also unseen, supernatural forces that claimed those who lacked reverence for the ancient woods.

Out of this fear and awe, the “Shrine of Chaopho Khao Yai” was established—offering spiritual protection for travelers who entered the forest with good intentions. It soon became a revered stop for passersby seeking blessings or forgiveness, mindful that they may have unknowingly disrespected sacred ground.

The legend of the shrine’s guardian spirit reached Field Marshal Sarit Thanarat, then Prime Minister of Thailand. After Khao Yai was officially declared a national park, the government relocated the shrine from its original site in Nakhon Nayok to Kilometer 23 of Thanarat Road—the current gateway to the park. This move honored the spirit’s continued role as a protector of both the forest and its visitors, just as he was believed to have done in life.

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Palat Chang Nisaisat was born during the reign of King Rama VI, around the late 19th century. A distinguished warrior, he had fought valiantly in battles along Thailand’s borders. Known for his noble bearing, he rode a horse, wore a striking red uniform, and carried both a pistol and a sword. His unwavering service and bravery earned him the title of “Palat” (Deputy Chief) within the army, responsible for overseeing the eastern frontier towns of Prachinburi and Nakhon Nayok.

In times of peace, Palat Chang remained active—often traveling on horseback to check on the provinces under his care. These journeys were not only opportunities to visit the local people but also a way to reconnect with fellow veterans and their families.

Around 1924, villagers from Tha Chai and Tha Dan in Hin Tang Subdistrict, Wang Krachom District (now Mueang District), Nakhon Nayok, began clearing the mountaintop of Khao Yai for farming. They planted rice, chilies, fruit trees, and built homes—forming a small settlement of about 30 households. Eventually, the area was officially designated as “Tambon Khao Yai,” falling under the administration of Pak Phli District.

But it wasn’t only honest villagers who took shelter in the forested highlands. The mountain also became a haven for five notorious outlaw gangs. Ironically, the leaders of these gangs were once battlefield comrades of Palat Chang himself.

Upon hearing that his former comrades had cleared large sections of the forest to build their hideouts and amass private militias, Palat Chang was deeply disheartened and angry. A man of principle who loved nature and justice, he could no longer intervene—having already retired from service. The bandits, now armed and desperate, showed no deference to their old leader. With no war and no military allowance, they turned to extorting the very villagers trying to live honestly.

The five gangs that took control of the area were: the Jan Gang, the Sai Gang, the Bunmee Gang, the Sam-ang Gang, and the Two Brothers Gang, led by the infamous Yeng and La.

When the authorities discovered that Palat Chang had once fought alongside all five gang leaders, they approached him to lend his influence one last time—for the good of the nation, and to help dismantle the lawless stronghold atop Khao Yai.

Palat Chang didn’t hesitate for long. Ever willing to serve, he accepted the government’s request and rode straight to Khao Yai to meet his former comrades. While most gangs agreed to talk, one group refused to cooperate. A meeting was arranged at a grassy clearing near Nong Khing to negotiate—but talks failed, and violence broke out.

In the end, Palat Chang personally subdued and killed the gang’s leader. The remaining members surrendered soon after. Not only did he quell the outlaw threat, he also persuaded the villagers who had settled illegally on the mountaintop to return to the lowlands and resume their lives lawfully.

With the cunning of a strategist and the fearlessness of a tiger, Palat Chang brought justice to the highlands. His commanding presence and moral authority inspired many former bandits to turn over a new leaf. In one remarkable encounter, the leader of the Two Brothers Gang dismounted upon seeing Palat Chang for the first time, knelt before him, and asked for a private conversation. That moment marked the start of his transformation—he later entered the monkhood, then became a schoolteacher in Nong Khiem village, where he lived honorably until his death.

For his contributions, Palat Chang was appointed as the tax collector for Nakhon Nayok province. At the time, tax revenue was declining year after year, and the government sought a capable and trustworthy person to restore order. His experience, integrity, and compassion—along with a history of effective service—made him the ideal choice.

Years later, Palat Chang passed away at the age of 75, succumbing to jungle fever. To honor his legacy, the villagers erected a spirit shrine beneath a towering kapok tree at the foot of the hill, near Wat Nong Khiem School in Nakhon Nayok. It became known as the “Shrine of Chaopho Palat Chang.”

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Each year on January 26th, those who revere Palat Chang’s virtue and legacy gather to pay homage at the Shrine of Chaopho Khao Yai. This annual ceremony honors not only a guardian of the forest but a protector of justice—one who stood against the wicked and uplifted the righteous. His story continues to inspire new generations to protect the natural world he once cherished.

The vibrant ritual dance held during the ceremony unites people from all walks of life—not only those who live and work near Khao Yai but also those who have personally experienced the power and protection of Chaopho Khao Yai in their own lives and families.

In later years, sacred amulets bearing his image were created for those who couldn’t travel to the shrine. These were blessed and distributed by Phra Athikan Kampanat Suketito, abbot of Wat Mu Si, and Ajarn Thewa Mahasarn of the Manee Sorn sunflower farm in Khao Yai.

Palat Chang’s legacy as a guardian of the forest in life—and a revered spirit after death—was compelling enough to inspire a feature film. Titled “Chaopho Khao Yai: The Impossible,” the film stars Sahatsachai Chumrum as Palat Chang and Pawarit Mongkolpisit as Suea Sam-ang, with direction by Pakin Sukkee. Currently in script development, the film promises to deepen the public’s appreciation for the legend of Chaopho Khao Yai.

Clearly, the story of Palat Chang Nisaisat continues to grow stronger with time. His legend has become a wellspring of faith, and his descendants—along with the people of Khao Yai—carry on his vow to protect their land. Today, that very land stands as one of the world’s most treasured natural heritage sites.

Tip 1:

How to Pay Respect to Chaopho Khao Yai

Sacred Chant

Begin with three recitations of “Namo Tassa”, then repeat the following:

Punaya Tawa Se Yang Nase (×3)

Offering Instructions:

1. For regular blessings: Light 5 incense sticks
2. For vows or special petitions: Light 9 incense sticks
3. For fulfilling a vow (once your wish is granted): Light 16 incense sticks

Tip 2:

A Poetic Offering Guide from the Shrine

Near the shrine of Chaopho Khao Yai, a sign gently reminds visitors how to make offerings—with a traditional Thai poem that goes something like this:

“To those who come in faith to pay respect,

With offerings placed before the shrine direct,

A tale long told through every age and door—

The spirit asks for liquor and one chicken, no more.”

“So let this message to all be passed around,

To those who vow to give when blessings abound:

Let thoughtful minds bring what’s simple and neat—

One chicken and liquor make an offering complete.”

“As for statues and figures brought to display,

They crowd the space and get in the way.

Transport is hard, storage not so kind—

Let’s keep it simple and leave none behind.”

This poetic sign reflects the local wisdom: offerings should be modest and heartfelt. A bottle of liquor and a single chicken will do just fine—no need for elaborate statues or excessive displays.

Tip 3:

Visiting the Shrine Without Entering the Park

If you're coming solely to pay respects at the Shrine of Chaopho Khao Yai and do not plan to enter the national park itself, you can park your car at the lot in front of the entrance gate and walk in. There is no entrance fee required for visiting the shrine.

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